Laurie Raphael

Our Rating:

Innovative combinations of delicious flavours that tantalise the tastebuds

Very expensive, but then we did get the full degustation menu with matching wines

The Review:

Having heard rave reviews of Laurie Raphael in Quebec City, with their molecular gastronomy and innovative cuisine, we were soon off in search of the Montreal restaurant of the same name, also under the supervision of executive chef Daniel Vezina.

It's a cute little restaurant on the second floor of Hotel Germain in the downtown area. Despite being fully booked on the Saturday night, the place was empty on the Sunday, and we were one of only two tables in the place. It is nicely decorated with a modern twist, and strings of plates hanging from the ceiling that are irresistible to play with. We quite liked the window into the kitchen, where usually there would be an amount of hustle and bustle, but on our quiet night, it looked very calm and under control.

We started, as always, with a dry martini, which passed the test, as we pondered over the interesting menu. Lots of intriguing food combinations, and delicious-sounding dishes. In the end, for ease and a wide selection, we settled on the full seven-course degustation menu with, of course, matching wines.

We started with a progression of shellfish: a scallop, an oyster, and a clam, all au naturel, each with a different fruit-inspired vinaigrette, including strawberry and mango. Delicious combination with a nice acidic bite, well washed down with a sweetish white wine. Next up was soft-shell crab, perfectly cooked with a crispy coating that highlighted the soft creamy flesh, and the slightly chewy shell. This was followed by a creamy piece of foie gras, also accompanied by a seasonal fruit vinaigrette, this time strawberries and rhubarb. These highlighted the silky softness of the foie gras against the sweetness of the sauce.

We moved onto the meat courses and the red wine selection. A melting, slow cooked piece of pork belly with a layer of crispy skin came with a soft red wine from Spain, I think. this was followed by our beloved lamb, with a sweet layer of glaze onto the perfectly cooked cut.

The cheese course was something a little different—a grilled cheese sandwich, with rich brioche, and a hearty matured cheddar. Something simple, but really bringing out the full flavour of the cheese. This was followed by the richest of rich chocolate cakes with a mousse and vodka jelly. Perfectly matched against a delicate dessert wine. The perfect finishing touch to a very filling menu.

We were very impressed with the quality of the food, and the innovative combinations used that really brought out the important flavours. I don't think that it is really a fully molecular gastronomy menu in the full complexity of those techniques, but the food was still extremely good. The wines were well-matched, and the service was adequate.

It was, however, prohibitively expensive, and that is the main reason we would probably not go back (unless someone else is paying). But if you can afford it (or find a sponsor), it is certainly one to try out.

http://www.laurieraphael.com/
2050, rue Mansfield, Montreal centre-ville